Nishijin is a district in the northwest of Kyoto that has been producing woven textiles since the fifth century. It is best known for the silk brocades used in kimono, but the district also produces a range of lighter fabrics, including the cotton voile we have been using since the spring 2023 collection. The voile comes from Tanaka Textile, a family-run mill that has been operating in Nishijin since 1961.

What cotton voile is

Voile is a plain-weave fabric made from tightly twisted yarns. The twist gives the fabric a slight crispness and a semi-sheer quality. Cotton voile is lighter and more breathable than most swimwear fabrics, which are typically synthetic. It dries quickly, does not cling when wet, and softens with each wash. The Tanaka voile we use is washed twice at the mill before we receive it, which removes the initial stiffness and pre-shrinks the fabric.

How we found Tanaka Textile

Aiko Murakami visited Nishijin in the autumn of 2022 as part of a broader research trip into Japanese textile producers. She had been looking for a cotton fabric that would work for swimwear without the synthetic feel of most technical fabrics. A contact at the Kyoto Textile Center introduced her to Tanaka Textile. The first sample arrived in November 2022. The spring 2023 collection was the first to use it.

Why cotton voile works for swimwear

Cotton voile is not a conventional swimwear fabric, and it has limitations. It is not chlorine-resistant and it should not be worn in a heavily chlorinated pool. In seawater and fresh water it performs well. It dries faster than most people expect. The semi-sheer quality means it requires a lining for swimwear use. We line all voile pieces with a Japanese stretch cotton jersey. The result is a swimsuit that feels like clothing rather than sportswear.

The summer 2026 voile pieces

The summer 2026 collection includes two voile pieces: the bandeau bikini in ivory and the high-waist brief in blush. Both are cut from the same Tanaka voile, washed twice before cutting. The sarong in deep fig is also voile, though in this case the fig colorway is a special dye run that Tanaka produced for us in early 2026. The sarong is the simplest way to try the fabric if you have not worn it before.

We are glad to have found Tanaka Textile. It is the kind of supplier relationship that takes time to build. We visited twice before placing the first order, and we visit once a year now. The fabric is better for it.