Silk is sold by weight, measured in momme (written as mm or simply momme). The number tells you how much 100 yards of the fabric weighs in pounds. For swimwear and lingerie, the choice of momme matters more than most buyers realize. It affects drape, opacity, durability, and how the fabric behaves when wet.
What momme count actually means ¶
A low momme count (8 to 10) produces a very light, sheer fabric. Beautiful in a scarf, but too fragile for a garment that will be worn, washed, and worn again. A high momme count (22 and above) produces a heavier, more structured fabric that is better suited to tailored garments than to swimwear. For swimwear and lingerie, the useful range is roughly 12 to 18 momme.
Why we use 16-momme washed silk ¶
At Mind Flow Zone Grid, we use a 16-momme washed silk from Maison Tarare in Lyon. The washing process is important: it reduces the sheen that makes raw silk look formal, softens the hand, and pre-shrinks the fabric so it does not change shape after the first wash. A 16-momme washed silk has enough weight to drape well and enough structure to hold a cut, but it is light enough to feel comfortable against the skin in warm weather.
How silk behaves when wet ¶
Silk does not perform like synthetic swimwear fabric. It is not chlorine-resistant and it should not be worn in a heavily chlorinated pool. In seawater and fresh water it performs well, provided you rinse it in cold water immediately after and lay it flat to dry. The washed silk we use has been tested through twelve washes in our studio before it goes into production. The color holds. The fabric does not distort.
What to look for when buying silk swimwear ¶
Ask about the momme count and whether the silk has been pre-washed. Ask about the lining. A silk swimsuit without a lining becomes transparent when wet, which is rarely the intention. At Mind Flow Zone Grid, we line all silk swimwear pieces with a Japanese stretch cotton jersey. Ask about care instructions before you buy, and be skeptical of any silk swimwear that claims to be machine-washable on a hot cycle.
Silk swimwear is not for everyone, and we say that honestly. If you want a fabric that you can throw in the machine and forget about, a technical synthetic is a better choice. If you want something that feels different and ages well with care, silk is worth understanding. Our sizing and care notes are in the FAQ.