Calais lace. Sometimes called Calais-Caudry lace. Is made in a small region of northern France using Leavers looms, a type of machine that has not changed significantly since the early nineteenth century. The lace it produces has a particular quality: the threads interlock rather than simply crossing, which gives the fabric a dimensional quality and a durability that cheaper lace does not have.

How Leavers lace is made

A Leavers loom works by interlocking warp and weft threads in a way that mimics hand-made bobbin lace. The process is slow. A single loom produces only a few centimeters of lace per hour. And the machines require skilled operators who are increasingly rare. There are fewer than 200 Leavers looms still operating in the Calais-Caudry region. The lace they produce cannot be replicated by faster, cheaper methods without losing the structural quality.

How to tell Calais lace from cheaper alternatives

Hold the lace up to the light. Calais lace has a consistent, dimensional pattern. The threads have depth. Cheaper lace, made on Raschel machines, looks flat and slightly plastic. The edges of Calais lace are clean and do not fray easily. Raschel lace edges are often sealed with a chemical finish that can crack over time. Calais lace also stretches evenly in four directions; Raschel lace often stretches more in one direction than the other.

Why stretch matters in lingerie

For lingerie and swimwear, we use a 4-way stretch Calais lace. The stretch is built into the lace structure, not added by a separate elastic thread. This means the lace moves with the body without distorting the pattern. It also means the lace recovers its shape after washing, which is not always true of cheaper alternatives. The warm sand and ivory colorways in the summer 2026 collection are both from our Calais supplier, selected during the October 2025 mill visit.

Caring for Calais lace

Hand-wash in cold water with a gentle detergent. Do not wring. Roll the piece in a clean towel to remove excess water, then lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Calais lace can last for years with this care. We have pieces from the first 2019 collection that are still in regular use. The lace does not pill, does not fray at the edges, and does not lose its shape if it is treated with basic care.

The lace we use is not the cheapest option available to us. It is the option that we believe produces a piece worth keeping. If you have questions about the lace in a specific piece, the product pages include the fabric details, and you are welcome to reach us directly.